Ingredients

2 cups basmati rice 

Kosher salt 

3 cloves 

10 peppercorns 

6 pods cardamom, seeds removed 

2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds 

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds 

1/8 teaspoon ground mace 

1/4 teaspoon saffron, crumbled 

1/3 cup whole milk 

6 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for frying onions 

1 3/4 pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces 

6 onions, thinly sliced (8 cups) 

2-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced (2 tablespoons) 

4 cloves garlic, minced (1 tablespoon) 

2 Thai chiles, sliced 1/8 inch thick 

1 tablespoon tomato paste 

1/2 cup plain whole-milk yogurt 

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 

One 2-inch cinnamon stick 

2 bay leaves 

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place rice in a medium bowl. Cover with cold water and rub rice to release starch. Drain. Repeat until liquid is almost clear. Cover with water and let stand 30 minutes. Drain. Bring 3 quarts water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt and rice. Return to a boil. Cook 4 minutes. Drain.

In a small skillet over medium-high heat, toast the cloves, peppercorns, cardamom, cumin, and coriander until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Let cool briefly, then grind in a spice grinder. Stir in mace. Soak saffron in milk.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large straight-sided skillet over medium-high. Working in two batches, season chicken with salt and cook until brown on one side, 5 minutes. Remove from pan. Reduce heat to medium. Add 2 tablespoons oil and the onions. Season with salt. Cook until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Reserve 1 cup onions and coarsely chop the rest.

Return chopped onions to pan with 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, chiles, the ground toasted spices, tomato paste, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add yogurt, turmeric, cinnamon stick, bay leaves, and 1/2 cup water. Bring to a boil. Add chicken, return to a boil, then reduce to low and simmer, covered, until chicken is just cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes.

Heat 1 inch oil in a small saucepan over medium-high until a piece of onion dropped in oil sizzles. Working in small batches, fry reserved onions until crisp and golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

When chicken has simmered for 15 minutes, remove from sauce. Bring sauce to a boil and cook, uncovered, to reduce slightly, about 3 minutes. Add juices from resting chicken. Remove half of the sauce. Return half of the chicken to pan and add half of the rice. Sprinkle with one-third of the crisped onions, half of the saffron milk, the reserved sauce, and remaining chicken. Top with remaining rice and another one-third of onions. Drizzle with remaining saffron milk.

Bake, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove from oven. Remove lid and wrap in a clean kitchen towel. Return lid to pan and let stand 10 minutes. Serve with remaining onions.